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Loxone diy how to#
Not to include when something doesn't work how do you figure out what the problem is and how to fix it? Systems like Control4, Savant, RTI ect.
Loxone diy full#
On the DIY for doing a full system it's always best to use a professional as you will pull your hair out trying to figure out what works with what and how to set it up. I'm not going to charge programming on a pair of speakers, however if the AMP that's powering them needs to be controlled by an automation system then there will be programming attached to that. Programming is also attached per product on products that need programming. As you can see there is no way to calculate labor % based of equipment MSRP price. A pair of speakers would be the same if they are $100 for the pair or $1000 for the pair.
Loxone diy 1080p#
Don't care if it's a $3000 curved 4k tv or a $500 1080p TV from best buy. If i'm doing floor plans then I'm also charging design as they are time consuming.Ī 60" TV would be 1.5hrs.
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Normally design is $200 - $5000 depending on the size of the project. This however is calculated based off the % or the project. I always charge design if it's a substantial system.
Loxone diy install#
If you buy expensive equipment but it's easier to install then the amount would be less. Ĭlick to expand.All my labor is calculated depending on what is being installed. In general companies bidding less than 10% usually either go out of business pretty quickly, or learn to start bidding correctly.Īgain, this critique is given based on some generalizations, since I don't know the specifics of the two installations. Or isn't a "real" company yet, and doesn't have any costs such as insurance etc.
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And/or has things inflated in other areas, but that seems unlikely here. The company doesn't know how to bid their projects and is losing money on labor. The system is essentially plug and play so there is really very little labor.ī. That said, it's certainly fair to make some generalizations about labor as a percentage of the total, and 33% (or higher) is far closer to the norm, and 10% is near unheard of, and would only be the case when:Ī. Would labor be different for those two systems? No. As an example, you could have two multi-room A/V systems that are identical in every way except one uses $1000 pair speakers throughout the house, and one uses $100 speakers, resulting in a 10K difference assuming 11 pairs of speakers. And using a percentage to determine labor is iffy at best. I don't like critiquing numbers in situations like this where we don't have all the details. These metrics are based off historical data of our costs to install these products. To answer your question, we price installation and programming based on a percentage of total product supply for some of our services. A $1400 install on a $20k system would be an example of this. The concept of selling systems with all products at MSRP and some bogus labour numbers for install and programming shows a lack of transparency, and is an antiquated business practice in my opinion. I would be more apt to work with the installer with real labour numbers on their proposal, as your are likely to get better follow up support and/or diffidences fixed as they are 'making money' on their labour - if only from their perspective. This does not change the overall cost of the system, however the breakdown as it appears on the proposal. Sometimes dealers will sell products at MSRP, which tends to have a large margin of profit built in, will use it to 'subsidise' lower than accurate install or programming costs. I've put my design up on Thingiverse: in case it's of use to anyone else.It's possible the breakdown on each proposal is not accurate to the actual cost of labour for each line. I route the button press events into Loxone via MQTT (LoxBerry) where I decode the virtual text input into pulses and connect as normal into logic blocks. Single, double and triple click all work, as well as long-press hold. I run the Tasmota firmware on the NodeMCU which natively supports switches/buttons.
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Since I have Faradite switches throughout the house, I wanted to keep a similar aesthetic and function, so I designed the case specifically for these switches, but they have the same dimensions as a standard UK backbox, so in theory any switch plate would work.
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To solve this problem, I designed and built a switch stand case to house an ESP8266 microcontroller (NodeMCU v2) connected to a capacitive touch switch plate. E.g., my office desk, kitchen counter, etc. In this time I've realised that there are a few places where I could have done with some extra switch controls. I've been living in my Loxone house for about 2 years now.
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